We provide customized solutions for your lawn

Gray cat lying in green grass with plants in the background.

GreenWay offers season-long fertilization and weed, insect, and disease control programs. We will visit your property four or five times a year to provide complete nutrient and pest management.
Our team can tailor a traditional or natural organic fertilization program to fit your needs.
Core aeration will:
- help penetrate a thatch layer
- reduce compaction
- help a lawn recover from drought, insect, or disease damage.
- prepare for seeding, either to fill in thin areas or just to improve grass types.
This is an excellent complement to our fertilization program. It may not be necessary every year, but when done in late August through October, it can really help your lawn recover and be better prepared for the next season.
Do we always need to seed when we core aerate?
Not, always. If your lawn is consistent and you’re just trying to control thatch and help it recover from summer stress, then there’s no need to seed. Seeding into a thick lawn is a waste of seed. The new seedlings will have very little chance of becoming established when surrounded by healthy, mature grass. Good quality seed is expensive and shouldn’t be wasted.
If your lawn has several browned out areas that are larger than 6” in diameter, then it may be a good idea to add seed to aeration. We can easily add seeding if it’s needed or wanted.
For lawns with an excessive thatch layer, adding dethatching is a good idea.
Do something productive, not destructive to your lawn this spring. Your lawn will love a light raking, or the light “thatch rake” version done by your landscape professional to remove leaves, old grass blades, and surface debris.
Our dethatching service is done with a power rake, and we can help you determine when the best time is to do this.
Late summer/early fall is usually the best time for these reasons:
- Better growing and recovery weather.
- Excellent time to seed, as needed.
- Reduced competition from weeds.
To learn more about thatch and dethatching, please read our article here.
Lime helps condition the soil for maximum nutrient efficiency.
We can power seed to fill in a thin lawn, establish a new one, or repair a damaged one. This is best done in the late season (late August – early October) but can also be done in the spring.

Lawn disease management

Diseases are usually aggravated by improper watering:

“The road to The Infernal Reaches is paved with good intentions.” That phrase usually applies to customers who try to manage turf diseases without proper guidance in how to do it best.

“I saw my lawn turning brown, so I figured it needed more water.” HUGE mistake! And the most common one that we encounter. Most fungal diseases LOVE water, moisture, and humidity. You’re just fanning the flames here.
“I just paid $3000 for this irrigation system and , dammit, I’m gonna run this bad boy until my lawn stays green!” HUGE mistake. Please reference comment from Mistake #1.
“I’m going to water this several times a day so that my lawn is always getting water, it’s bound to stay green that way.” HUGE mistake. Continue to reference comment from Mistake #1.

Daily watering, and multiple-times-a-day watering, are the worst things you can do to manage fungal diseases, with a few exceptions. There’s a reason that most of our lawns with fungal problems have irrigation systems that are run too often. The trick to managing fungal disease is proper watering. Follow our advice for watering. We leave it every time we service your lawn.

There are some instances where watering, mowing, and fertilizing are all done right and you may still have problems, but those problems are usually manageable and may not require chemical intervention. We can apply fungus controls for more serious cases. Bear in mind that fungus control applications are not a complete cure. They simply control it for a period of about 1 month. They’re like expensive prescription drugs that need to be continued unless conditions change.